DOG FAQs

• Training & Behavior
  - Teach Good Manners
  - Behavior
  - Housebreaking
• Dental Care
  - General
  - Home Prevention
• Neutering
  - Surgical Spaying of Female Dog
  - Surgical Neutering of Male Dog
• Breeding & Reproduction
  - Breeding & Pregnancy
  - Whelping (Delivery)
  - Nursing
  - Weaning
• Orphan Puppies
  

The puppy can learn to wear a collar, to walk on a leash, to come when called and not to jump on people. When your puppy is well trained, it will be more secure and confident when taught to understand and obey simple commands. Think of it as a good way of communicating with your pet.

While young puppies learn easily, they also forget easily. Lavish praise, petting, and patience are essential at this time. Any punishment should be mild and limited primarily to a harsh-toned reprimand or brief isolation.

A puppy eight to 12 weeks of age goes through a period of fear. Unpleasant experiences are deeply imprinted. The puppy should receive a great deal of affection and attention along with the necessary training during this time.

From 12 to 16 weeks, the puppy will want to establish dominance in the “family”. During these weeks, the puppy needs love, attention, DISCIPLINE, socialization and security. Formal obedience training should begin during this period if the full potential of the puppies’ intelligence and companion ability is to be realized. The difference between a “good” dog and “great” dog depends frequently on the development and training during this stage.

At six months of age, the puppy is ready for the more intensive obedience training or training as a working dog. Most communities have special obedience classes available. The classes are recommended. You will learn how to train your dog to respond to the basic commands of “heel”, “sit”, “stay” and “come”. Here too, your dog will learn to mingle with people and other dogs without becoming wildly excited.

The wise owner always practices quietness, calmness and firmness with the dog. He or she is a consistent disciplinarian as well as a playfellow. A well-trained dog that receives consistent attention, acquires basic good manners, which make it an enjoyable companion. It is a self-assured, trusted housemate and guardian instead of a cast-off novelty, pleading for attention.

Behavior (Back To Top)
Behavioral problems are usually bad habits that can be prevented with proper training. Jumping, barking and biting may be caused your puppy was taken from its mother or littermates too early in life to learn how to relate to other dogs. Stress also can be a factor in your pets’ behavior.

You should train your pet not to jump on you or guests by saying the command ²²OFF!²² It may be necessary to grasp both paws firmly and thrust downward while you give the command.

Excessive barking is a bad habit that may have developed during the critical socialization period of a puppy. Usually it results because a dog is lonely, frustrated or uncomfortable as would be natural if it were tied up to a doghouse or tree for extended periods. Exercise your pet on a leash and play with it as much as possible.

Biting is a dangerous action that, once learned, can quickly become a habit. Most dogs will not bite unless they are threatened or have been trained to do With the chronic biter, get professional help from an experienced dog trainer or behaviorist, but only after a health examination by your veterinarian. Your veterinarian can then advise you how to best cope with the situation.

Housebreaking (Back To Top)
Housebreaking begins when you first bring your new puppy home. Exercise it frequently in a selected area. At first, eliminations and being outdoors will be coincidental. But, if you exercise your puppy as soon as it awakens from sleep or rest, immediately after meals and just before bedtime, those experiences become habit. This routine will usually train most dogs in seven to 10 days.

If you do not have an outdoor area, you can train your puppy with newspapers or puppy training pads available from pet stores. Either spread them over a large area, gradually reducing the area covered, or start out with only a small area.

Always praise for success. Scolding you puppy for “misses” is effective only when they’re caught in the act. Then take it outside, showing it where it should have gone. Remember, the puppy has an extremely short memory, so scolding it where you find later where an “accident” has occurred is not helpful. Never rub its nose or face into the soiled area. When elimination does occur in the house, clean the area thoroughly. Several products for removing stains or odors are available through your veterinarian or pet store.

Your puppy learns correct behavior by not having the opportunity to make mistakes. You must help by anticipating the times it needs to eliminate and taking it to the appropriate place. While your puppy is learning, it needs your encouragement, so accompany the dog outside.

At six months of age, your puppy should be checked by your veterinarian to assure that is losing it´s²² baby²² teeth correctly and the permanent teeth are erupting normally. Annual exams should be scheduled at the time of booster vaccinations. Your veterinarian will then schedule your pet for annual dental cleaning.

Home Prevention (Back To Top)
Dental care does not end with a visit to your veterinarian - preventative dental care needs to be practiced at home. Brushing your pets’ teeth is an important part of home dental care because it breaks down the daily deposit of plaque before it hardens into tarter.

To begin brushing routine, wrap a gauze square or wash cloth around your finger and se it like a toothbrush. Wipe all the teeth, front and back, with strokes from the gum line to the tip of the tooth. Do this once a day for two weeks to familiarize your pet with having the teeth and gums rubbed.

Your dog is now ready for a soft toothbrush. Do not use toothpaste designed for people because it could upset the dogs’ stomach. Specially flavored toothpastes designed for pets are available from your veterinarian. Be sure to scrub in the crevice where the gums meet the teeth as this is where odor and infection begin. Brush at least every three days.

Caring for your pets’ teeth can strengthen the human-animal bond. Make it part of the regular grooming routine


Neutering (Back To Top)
Surgical Neutering of the Female Dog
Neutering of the female dog (spaying), called ovariohysterectomy, completely eliminates all heat cycles and the accompanying unwanted bleeding cycle and desire to mate. Neutering your dog will also protect it from uterine infections and other diseases as well as pregnancy. Studies show that by neutering your female dog before her first heat cycle, you can greatly reduce her chances of developing breast cancer later in life.

Many misconceptions surround the ovariohysterectomy operation.. Some people believe that it will cause the female to become fat and lazy. This is normally not true. After this operation, fewer calories are required by the non-fertile female, so to prevent weight gain, simply reduce the food intake somewhat, following your veterinarian´s advice.

It is not necessary to wait for a "heat period" or a litter of puppies prior to spaying. Most veterinarians recommend that a female pet be spayed.

Surgical Neutering of the Male Dog (Back To Top)
As a general rule, if you are not going to be using your male dog for breeding, he should be neutered (orchiectomy). The reproductive tract in the male dog is for reproduction only. Left un-neutered, the reproductive tract can do no good and only do harm, such as prostate infection or cancer, testicle infection or cancer and hormonal imbalances or behavioral problems. If you do plan to breed your dog, neutering can be done afterwards and should be completed before middle age (5-7 years). Neutering the male dog eliminates any reproductive behavior and reduces urine odor. Your male dog will continue to have his own personality but he will be less likely to roam.

Most veterinarians recommend neutering male dogs.

Breeding And Reproduction (Back To Top)
Breeding and Pregnancy
If you choose to breed your dog, make an appointment first with your veterinarian for a thorough physical exam so your pet can be checked for parasites and vaccinated for diseases she could pass to her puppies. X-rays or special eye exams may also be recommended to assure there are no hereditary problems. She should also be on a heartworm preventative program. Dietary supplements may be prescribed.

Although this time varies, the female will usually not accept the male dog until nine to 14 days after vaginal swelling and bleeding has started. To determine the proper time for mating, take her to the male every other day, starting on the ninth day. You may desire to have your veterinarian do laboratory tests to determine the proper time for breeding.

The female ready to mate is friendly toward the male and welcomes his advances. She will stand still as he investigates her and accept him when he attempts to mate. If she is aggressive and threatens the male, she should be removed to try again in a couple of days. A few females will never accept a specific male. In this case, consult you veterinarian. Artificial insemination can be done in most cases if necessary.

As part of the breeding act, the male and female will be ²²tied²² together for five to 15 minutes. This is normal and requires no intervention on your part, except to restrict them to a safe area. Mating should be repeated every other day as long as the female will accept the male.

Pregnancy lasts from 60-64 days. About a month after breeding, the pregnant female usually shows some breast and abdominal enlargement. Your veterinarian can sometimes verify pregnancy as early as 25-30 days by palpation. Some veterinarians offer a special blood test or ultrasound evaluation that can diagnose pregnancy as early as 2-3 weeks. Increase your dog´s food, for she requires nutrition for the puppies she is carrying as well as herself. The easiest way to do this is by feeding her twice daily, gradually increasing the amount until she seems satisfied.

A large wood cardboard box should be prepared for the birth of the puppies. The size of the box should allow the dog to stretch out in any direction. The sides of the box should be high enough to confine the puppies, but low enough so that the mother can get in and out easily. She should be encouraged to nap and sleep at night in the box, so it becomes familiar to her.

As the time of delivery approaches, the dog´s abdomen gets larger, and her breasts appear to fill with milk. She will spend more time in her box and appear more restless as labor becomes imminent.

She usually will refuse food for 12 to 24 hours before labor starts. The vulva swells somewhat, softens and loosens, and frequently there is a clear mucous discharge. As labor starts, the female usually pants, and you can see her side compress as she strains.

Whelping (Delivery) (Back To Top)
Whelping (birth of pups) is a natural process. Most female dogs have no trouble and require no assistance. It may be 12 or more hours from the first labor contraction until the first pup is born. If no puppy is born after three to four hours of hard labor, your veterinarian should be contacted. It is more important to observe how the mother acts than to watch the clock. If she appears comfortable and under no stress or pain, it is best to leave her alone.

The interval between puppies can vary from one-half hour to as much as 24 hours. The same guideline applies - if she is in hard labor for three to four hours and no puppy is born, contact your veterinarian. If she is quiet and comfortable, do not worry.

The female usually requires no assistance caring for her puppies during whelping. If she is not in obvious difficulty, it is best to leave her alone. She will lick and clean each puppy as it is born, and instinctively they will move to her breast to suck.

Nervous or high strung females should be watched to prevent their destroying the puppies, either accidentally or intentionally. Some females fail to properly remove the membranes from the puppy. They ignore it instead of cleaning it. If the mother fails to clean it, you must do so using a warm, damp washcloth. The umbilical cord should be cut clean leaving approximately one inch. Be careful not to pull too hard on the puppies´ abdomens. Within a day after delivery, the mother and all of her puppies should be examined by your veterinarian. Your veterinarian may detect birth defects or other problems. He or she will examine the new mother for any retained puppies or afterbirth, check breasts and milk flow, and give her any treatment required.

Nursing (Back To Top)
At birth, a puppy is like any other newborn animal. It instinctively moves to the breast and suckles its mother for the food that nature has provided.

The first milk secreted by the female after birthing is called colostrom. A puppy that does not get this first milk is more susceptible to infection than puppies who do get colostrum.

With very large litters, your veterinarian may recommend special milk replacements to supplement the puppies.

Weaning (Back To Top)
Weaning is a gradual process. At 10 to 14 days of age, the puppies open their eyes and begin to wander about. Allow them to be with the mother when she is eating. Offer them small amounts of puppy food mixed with milk in a shallow dish. Many puppies begin to eat by imitating their mother.

Puppies can be weaned when they eat well on their own, usually at five to six weeks of age. When all the puppies have been removed, the mother may become uncomfortable. Her breasts will become full, tender and sensitive. This is a normal part of the weaning process. This painful period lasts only a day or so, further secretion of milk is inhibited, and the swelling in the breasts goes down. Usually no medical treatment is required.

Orphan Puppies (Back To Top)
Orphan puppies require the same type of care that they would receive from their mothers. Newborn puppies have poorly developed temperature regulating mechanisms and as a result are easily chilled. The first two weeks they should be kept in an area with a minimum temperature of 85 degrees F.

A constant temperature can be maintained by using a heating pad under one-half of the puppy´s bed or by using a 60 watt light bulb for warmth in one corner of the box. Place an outdoor thermometer in the puppy´s bed and check it often to see that the proper temperature is being maintained.

It is as dangerous for the puppy to be overheated as it is to be chilled. By placing the heating pad so the puppy can move away from it, the puppy can protect itself somewhat from overheating.

After the puppy is two weeks old, the temperature can be lowered to 80 degrees F and at four weeks to 75 degrees F.

If you have more than one puppy to raise, provide separate boxes and beds. Young orphan puppies tend to suck one another. In addition, in separate quarters you can monitor bowel eliminations and food intake.

Orphan puppies less than one week old must be stimulated to urinate and eliminate. This is accomplished by gentle massage of the abdomen and genital area with a piece of cotton dampened with warm water.

The amount to be fed depends on the size of the puppy. You can tell after the first few feedings how much the puppy needs to be satisfied.

If the puppy is tiny, you may feed the formula with a medicine dropper. If it is larger, use a small animal nursing bottle. Your veterinarian can show you how to tube feed the puppies to decrease the time involved in raising orphan puppies.

If you provide warmth, stimulate elimination, feed a balance replacement formula in adequate amounts and give lots of love, affection and tenderness, you can expect to be successful in raising your orphan puppy.